Is your shampoo of natural, unnatural, or supernatural origin?
Keith S. Taber
A well know brand of hair products is being advertised on television with an explicit claim that the shampoo is 94% of natural origin. Clearly there is also an implicit claim here about the other 6%! This dubious claim does not seem to be a slip of the tongue, as similar references can be found in product details on line (including the examples below). The science teacher in me knew that it was this kind of nonsense which supports common misconceptions about 'natural' being inherently good, and there being a clear distinction between materials that are 'natural', and those that are not.
Shampoos from brands other than Herbal Essences are 100% of natural origin.
The other evening I was watching television, and there was a shampoo being advertised, and although I was not paying attention I thought I heard the claim that the shampoo contained products of 94% natural origin. Had I misheard – a quick 'rewind' suggested not.
My next assumption was that this was sloppy language being used by some advertising copywriter, and that the manufacturer who commissioned the commercial simply had not noticed the slip. So I had a look on line.1 It seems that the brand concerned, Herbal Essences, has a habit or topping up its products with material that is not of natural origin. The company claims it is using at least 90% materials of natural original in its latest products (see the examples below), and this is apparently seen as a positive point to stress in its marketing.
But this is just nonsense. If the shampoo was fabricated using 94% products of natural original, then 6% was not of natural origin. This leaves me to wonder where the rest originates. A shampoo, any shampoo, is 100% of natural origin.
Natural products chemistry
In chemistry there is a common term natural products which tends to be used for materials extracted from living organisms – one can extract vitamin C from oranges, and insulin for diabetics used to be extracted from pancreases from farm animals (although now it is produced by the activities of bacteria or yeast). In that sense salt (produced by evaporating sea water) and chalk (deriving from the shells debris from long dead sea organisms) are not natural products. But like everything else in the material world, salt and chalk are still of natural origin.
So what is a hair product which is not of natural origin, or which is only partially of natural origin? It seems there are two obvious contrasts to natural, which are 'unnatural' and 'supernatural'. Presumably the company was not suggesting it used ingredients of supernatural origin?
What makes something unnatural?
Assuming Herbal Essences products do not include material of supernatural origin, the other option would seem to be material of unnatural origin. But what makes a material unnatural.
At various times, in various cultural contexts, the divine right of kings, feudalism and slavery will have been seen as perfectly natural, as well the subservience of women to men. Certain sexual acts that are now widely (if not universally) considered part of the normal range of human behaviours have at various times in different societies been considered unnatural – indeed so unnatural that those found to have 'committed' them might be put to death.
Given that the question of 'what is human nature?' is not settled (didn't Immanuel Kant think this was the core task for philosophy?) the approach that is sometimes taken is to look instead to 'nature' herself (for nature is a 'she' as has long been established – in part justifying her domination and mistreatment by 'man'). If it happens in nature, then that's natural.
"The sun rises everyday but animals occasionally give birth to monsters. 'Natural is what occurs always or almost always', says Aristotle, generalizing from this experience."
Paul Feyerabend
So, by this criterion, saving lives with blood transfusions is not natural, and nor is hip replacement surgery, nor using an incubator to stop premature babies dying. However, cancer is natural. Pushing your siblings out of the nest, or pecking them to death, to get a greater share of the food your parents bring home is perfectly natural. Depositing your eggs in another creature, and paralysing it so that it acts as a defenseless (but alive, and so fresh) source of food when your offspring hatch out inside it, is natural.
The man-made is not 'natural'
This depends upon demarcating humans as somehow outside of nature. This is difficult for a natural scientist to accept as 'ever since Darwin' (to borrow a phrase) it has been difficult to see how humans can be considered inherently distinct from the rest of the natural world, even if contingency has led to some obvious differences in terms of the development of culture. This argument then distinguishes the natural from the synthetic, the man-made.
A space rocket is not natural (in this sense) as it only exists because humans built it. Whether this is qualitatively different from technology elsewhere in nature – a badger's dam, a termite's nest, a honeycomb – rather than just a matter of a (admittedly impressive) difference of degree is an interesting question.
There are no doubt times where it is useful to distinguish between materials and objects that can be collected or extracted form 'natural' sources, and those that only exist because they have been synthesised by people – even if we do need to be wary of reading too much into the distinction. The Saturn V rocket did not exist 'in nature', and nor does a lemon coated in a wax so that it will stay 'fresh' longer – but one is the product of considerably less processing than the other. 2
Fluorine compounds (fluorides) are added to drinking water in many places to help protect teeth, but in other places the water supply already (i.e., 'naturally') contains fluoride at much higher levels – indeed, sometimes high enough to be considered a medical risk. This both reminds us that what is natural is somewhat arbitrary, and that what is considered natural is not necessarily desirable.
Natural and natural origin
The Saturn V rocket was synthetic – it was not found 'as is', growing in a swamp or being ejected from a volcano ('You Only Live Twice' style). But the materials it was made from were all of natural origin, even if some of them may have been the result of considerable processing of naturally occurring materials.
Any material thing in our world is of natural origin. Some materials are used much as found 'in nature', sometimes some cleaning or tidying is needed (think of natural diamonds being 'cut' to best reflect light), some purifying (separating compounds from crude oil fractions), some extracting (metal from ore), some synthesising (ammonia from hydrogen and nitrogen)… The amount of processing may vary considerably, but everything material that goes into a manufactured product is ultimately of natural origin.
So Herbal Essences products are 100% of natural origin, just as are the products of all their competitors.
A vague distinction
Webpages advertising specific Herbal Essences product lines often simply report that they are of 9n% natural origin, as in the examples below (95%, 96%, 97%). However, I found a page where it was clarified that the 90+% of natural origin included "purified water and ingredient materials derived from a natural source and subjected to limited processing".
So Herbal Essences do not use natural ditch water, or natural swamp water, or even natural sea water in their products, but rather purified water. I am pleased – as I have used Herbal Essences products, and will likely do so again, and I would rather not use dirty water when I am seeking to clean my hair.
So, it seems that for Herbal Essences, being of natural origin actually means, natural materials found in a suitable form to be used directly, or ("natural derived") only needing a "limited" amount of processing. Limited processing is a good thing in 'green chemistry' terms (less waste, less energy needed) but it is both a vague notion (who is to decide what makes the processing 'limited', and how does a consumer know what Herbal Essences count as limited?), and of course it is simply a quite different concept to being of natural origin.
I guess the company wanted a way of saying they were basing their products on natural products (such as plant extracts) without being misleading by implying that they could simply go and collect all the component materials and use them without needing any further processing. These materials may be pressed, steamed, or separated and purified in other ways, but are not generally the outcomes of complex synthetic processes. I can see both why that would be attractive to consumers, and why it is not easy to get across in a simple catchy term.
Yet the claim that 94% of your hair product is of natural origin, when a moment's thought should lead to the consumer realising that actually all products are of 100% natural origin, is a claim that (unlike the missing 6% of your Herbal Essences brand shampoo), does not have any substance.
a "limited" amount of processing
is both a vague notion and simply a quite different concept to
being of natural origin.
Appendix: Some examples of products that are not completely of natural origin
95% natural origin
The Herbal Essences Coconut Milk conditioner is, according to their website,
95% natural origin
https://herbalessences.co.uk/en-gb/products/coconut-milk/coconut-milk-shampoo/
73% purified water and 22% natural derived ingredients other 5% for a good usage experience & product stability.
96% natural origin
The Herbal Essences Coconut Milk conditioner is, according to their website
96% natural origin
https://herbalessences.co.uk/en-gb/products/coconut-milk/coconut-milk-conditioner/
88% purified water and 8% natural derived ingredients other 4% for a good usage experience & product stability.
96% natural origin
The Herbal Essences Bourbon & Manuka Honey shampoo, is,
96% natural origin
https://herbalessences.co.uk/en-gb/products/bourbon-manuka-honey/bourbon-manuka-honey-shampoo/
73% purified water and 23% natural derived ingredients other 4% for a good usage experience & product stability.
97% natural origin
Their Volumising White Strawberry & Sweet Mint shampoo, is
97% natural origin
https://herbalessences.co.uk/en-gb/products/white-strawberry-sweet-mint/white-strawberry-sweet-mint-shampoo/
84% purified water and 13% natural derived ingredients other 3% for a good usage experience & product stability.
At least 9/10ths natural origin
I learn from the company's website that
"All of our Herbal Essences bio:renew hair products have a 90% natural origin *"
https://herbalessences.co.uk/en-gb/whats-up-with-paraben-free-shampoo/
And they kindly explain that by natural origin they mean
"* includes purified water and ingredient materials derived from a natural source and subjected to limited processing"
Source cited:
- Feyerabend, P. (2011) The Tyranny of Science. Cambridge: Polity Press
Footnote
1: All quotes are from the website pages cited as accessed on 22nd August 2021.
2. I note that Wikipedia suggests that
"Fruit waxing is the process of covering fruits (and, in some cases, vegetables) with artificial [sic] waxing material. Natural [sic] wax is removed first, usually by washing, followed by a coating of a biological or petroleum derived wax. Potentially allergenic proteins (peanut, soy, dairy, wheat) may be combined with shellac."